The market stalls are a tapestry of ochre and darkish inexperienced. There are fats pumpkins and bunches of cavolo nero; early parsnips and chard entwined with late peaches and blackberries. There are apples for a pie, the primary native pears (convention, as crisp as a sheet ice) hazelnuts and the primary chestnuts. Meals purchasing doesn’t get higher than this.
The primary pumpkins are startling, their presence a sudden reminder that the 12 months is waning. I’d purchase one or two for the home – merely for the great thing about their curves and dimples, however so far as cooking goes, they will wait per week or two. They are going to have a lot work to do that winter – and, as a substitute, I carry dwelling a shiny-skinned and user-friendly butternut. Destined to finish its days as a tart filling with onions and pine nuts, the butternut weighs much less within the bag than the fats turban pumpkins. I’ll steam the flesh and tuck it into the filling of pie. That is the primary of the vegetable pies and tarts that I stay up for a lot because the evenings darken.
Later, there will probably be potato-topped pies of mushrooms and cream, of smoked haddock and dill and deep-filled hen pies. Their tops will probably be golden brown, embellished with pastry leaves and berries however, for now, the pastry is folded loosely over the filling, to show its orange-bright filling.
The summer time’s carrots are fattening up. Higher for grating than the pencil-thin roots of early summer time. Their flavour extra earthy. Some will probably be handled as if for remoulade, the ensuing matchsticks tossed in a mustardy mayonnaise with chopped parsley. Others will probably be minimize in half lengthways and roasted, then tossed with a combination of chopped inexperienced olives and lemon or with an intense miso and mustard paste. The primary will sit apart grilled plaice, the miso carrots being eaten with steamed brown rice or smoky inexperienced wheat.
There could also be candy pie, too: deep blackberry and apple if I’ve the endurance (I do) or apple crisp if not – the topping of oats, demerara and butter made within the blink of a watch. That pie will probably be served heat with cream or chilly with a slice of ivory-hued caerphilly.
The peaches have been just a little hit or miss this 12 months. Fruits have been luscious or lacklustre because the temper takes them. The flat white ones have fared higher, although I refuse to name them “doughnut” peaches. At this late hour within the season, you’ll be able to pull the fruits aside along with your palms, twist out the stone and add the scarlet-edged flesh to a salad of Parma ham and inexperienced olives.
The bigger fruits, turmeric yellow and scented like roses, have been eaten noisily, however people who have didn’t ripen have been poached in syrup and served with a sauce of both blackcurrants or blueberries.
Autumn is the place the 12 months begins for me. The place our cooking shakes itself from its sleepy summer time haze. It’s when the cake tins and pie dishes come out; the casseroles come down from the shelf and when the true cooking begins once more.
Deep apple and blackberry pie
An apple pie so deep it may be served by the thick slice and eaten as you would possibly eat a cake. The spicing of the apples – with cinnamon, lemon and nutmeg – is gentle, and the blackberries add a touch of tartness. I exploit candy dessert apples for this fairly than bramleys, that are susceptible to prepare dinner all the way down to a froth – good for baked apples however not so applicable for a deep-sided pie comparable to this. This isn’t a recipe to be rushed, so take your time.
For the pastry
plain flour 300g
chilly butter 150g
icing sugar 2 tbsp
egg yolk 1 giant
egg 1, frivolously overwhelmed
For the filling
candy dessert apples 1.8kg
golden caster sugar 2 tbsp
floor cinnamon a knifepoint
nutmeg just a little, grated
Additionally, you will want a 20cm cake tin, 6cm deep, with a unfastened backside, ideally with a spring clip.
Make the pastry by placing the flour into the bowl of a meals processor, including the butter, minimize into small cubes, then lowering to coarse crumbs. In case you desire, rub the cubes of butter into the flour along with your fingertips. Cease after they appear like contemporary, coarse breadcrumbs. Add the icing sugar, then the egg yolk after which sufficient water to supply a agency, rollable dough. I begin with one tablespoon, then add a second (and sometimes a 3rd). Take away the dough from the bowl, pat right into a ball then wrap in baking parchment and refrigerate for half-hour.
For the filling, peel the apples, dropping every one right into a bowl of water you might have acidulated with the juice of half of the lemon (it can cease them browning). Quarter, core and thinly slice them, dropping them again into the water as you go.
Drain the apples, then put them in a medium-sized, stainless-steel saucepan with the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and the juice of the remaining lemon half. Convey to the boil then cut back the warmth to a simmer until the apples are tender however nonetheless maintain their form – about 10-Quarter-hour. Stir infrequently then take away from the warmth and go away them to chill.
Set the oven at fuel mark 6/180C fan and place a baking sheet on the center shelf. Very frivolously butter the edges and base of a 20cm loose-bottomed, non-stick cake tin. Take away the pastry from the fridge, minimize off rather less than a 3rd of it, then return that to the fridge. Roll out the bigger piece of pastry and use it to line the bottom and sides of the tin. Ensure to seal any tears or cracks that seem (in any other case your pie will leak). Place a bit of baking parchment over the pastry and the edges of the tin and fill with baking beans, then bake for Quarter-hour on high of the recent baking sheet. Elevate out and punctiliously take away the paper and beans. Return to the oven for an extra 5 minutes till the pastry feels dry to the contact.
Take away the pastry-lined cake tin from the oven. Decrease the temperature to fuel mark 4/160C fan.
Fill with the apples, including the blackberries as you go then put aside. Take away the small piece of pastry from the fridge and roll out to suit the highest of the cake tin. Brush the sting of the pastry within the tin with the overwhelmed egg. Decrease the pastry over the apple and blackberry filling and press the pastry edges collectively to seal. Brush the pastry with overwhelmed egg, pierce two or three small slits on the floor (to cease the pastry splitting because it bakes) and bake for 45 minutes until golden.
Take away from the oven and go away for an excellent 15-20 minutes to settle earlier than working a palette knife fastidiously across the edge and opening the spring clip and eradicating the tin.
Butternut and pinenut tart
There may be a lot to be mentioned for a dish that’s pretty much as good chilly as it’s scorching from the oven. The tart that follows is such a recipe. The butternut – or pumpkin, should you desire – sits on a mattress of softened onions, flecked with thyme and pine kernels. The onions are cooked until completely mushy and golden, then loosely encased with the butternut in parmesan pastry.
For the pastry
plain flour 150g
water 1 tbsp
grated parmesan 40g
For the filling
onions 2 medium
olive oil 2 tbsp
butternut squash or pumpkin 1kg
dried thyme 1 tsp
pine kernels 1 tbsp
Make the pastry by placing the flour and a beneficiant pinch of salt into a big mixing bowl. Cube the butter and crumble the flour and butter collectively between your fingertips and thumbs, to the feel of sentimental crumbs. Stir within the parmesan then sufficient water to offer a agency however rollable dough. Begin with a tablespoon and see the way you go. (Utilizing a meals processor you are able to do this in seconds.) Form the dough right into a ball, wrap in kitchen paper and refrigerate for half-hour.
To make the filling, peel the onions and slice them into skinny rounds. In a shallow pan over a average warmth, heat the olive oil then add the onions and fry for 10 minutes or so, stirring frequently, until they’ve softened. Add the dried thyme and a grinding of salt and pepper, then prepare dinner for an extra 10 minutes, till the onions are mushy and golden; put aside.
Peel the butternut squash or pumpkin and discard the seeds and fibres from its core. (Strictly talking, it’s pointless to peel a butternut, however I desire it with out the pores and skin for this.) Minimize the butternut into slices roughly 1cm in thickness, then place them in a steamer basket or colander. Place them on high of a pan of boiling water, cowl with a lid and steam for 8 minutes or till tender. Take away and put aside.
Roll the rested pastry out on a frivolously floured board right into a spherical roughly 30cm in diameter. Set the oven at fuel mark 6/180C fan.
Switch the pastry to a baking sheet lined with baking parchment, then place the slices of butternut, barely overlapping, over the pastry leaving a 2cm rim throughout the sting. (They are going to be very tender, however don’t fear in the event that they break up just a little.) Season with just a little salt and black pepper. Scatter the onions over, brushing the butternut with any oil from the pan. Fold the outer fringe of the pastry in, to loosely cowl the sting of the butternut and onions, then scatter with pine kernels.
Bake the tart for 25 minutes until golden brown.
Candy potato and carrots with miso
The sweetness of carrots can take the extreme savoury hit of a darkish brown miso paste. I sweeten the miso with honey and stir in just a little mustard, too, making a dressing that can be utilized to baste the carrots as they roast. This was meant as a facet dish, however I’ve been consuming it as a foremost course. Keep watch over the carrots in direction of the top of cooking – you need them sticky and caramelised. (I like to recommend a non-stick roasting tin.)
Serves 4 as a facet dish or 3 as a foremost dish with rice
candy potato 500g
olive oil 3 tbsp
brown miso 90g
grain mustard 1 tbsp
steamed brown rice
Preheat the oven to fuel mark 6/180C fan. Peel the candy potatoes. Scrub the carrots. Minimize the candy potatoes into giant chunks, in regards to the measurement you’d for roast potatoes, then minimize the carrots in half lengthways (and in half once more, if they’re significantly giant).
In a roasting tin, warmth the olive oil over a average warmth then add the candy potatoes and carrots and allow them to brown frivolously on the underside, then flip and frivolously brown the others. Switch the roasting tin to the oven and go away for about 40 minutes until the greens are tender to the purpose of a knife.
In the meantime, put the brown miso in a small saucepan, add the mirin, honey, mustard and sherry and convey to the boil, stirring because the combination warms. Take away from the warmth. Take away the greens from the oven and pour over the sauce, ensuring the candy potatoes and carrots are frivolously lined. Return to the oven for Quarter-hour till the sauce is effervescent and caramelised.
Serve with steamed brown rice.
Roast aubergine quinoa
I usually roast greens, tomatoes, onions, marrow or some form of autumn squash in my largest roasting tin, then choose at them for the following couple of days. They make a high-quality accompaniment, however will also be added to cooked grains or lentils. Quinoa isn’t my first thought once I’m rummaging via the jars within the larder however right here it really works nicely, the grains sponging up the toasty juices from the olive-oily greens. I ought to add that I’ve additionally eaten this chilly, the day after making it, and it was superb, too.
aubergines 500g (2 medium)
olive oil 6-8 tbsp
crimson chillies 2 small and scorching
garlic 2 cloves
spring onions 3
cumin seeds 1 tsp
floor coriander 1tsp
parsley, mint and coriander leaves 30g whole weight
Preheat the oven to fuel mark 6/180C fan. Minimize the aubergines in half lengthways, then into giant items about 4cm thick. Minimize the courgettes into similar-sized items. Peel the marrow, take away the seeds and core and once more minimize the flesh into similar-sized items.
In a roasting tin over a average warmth, heat the olive oil then add the aubergines and courgettes and marrow and prepare dinner till the edges are golden – about 10 minutes – turning infrequently. Peel and finely slice the garlic, finely chop the chilli (eradicating the seeds first, if you want) then stir into the aubergines. Roughly chop the spring onions and add to the pan.
Add the cumin and coriander, proceed cooking for a minute then switch to the oven and roast until the components are mushy and tender – about 40-50 minutes. Minimize the tomatoes in half then add to the roasted greens and return to the oven for Quarter-hour.
Whereas the greens are roasting, prepare dinner the quinoa in boiling, frivolously salted water for 20 minutes. Roughly chop the parsley and mint. When the grains are tender, drain and gently stir into the roasted greens with the herbs, test the seasoning and serve.
Peaches with blackcurrant sauce
There are nonetheless some respectable peaches round, although this has hardly been the perfect of years. (I’ve had a number of batches that refused, level clean, to ripen and people who did have been lower than juicy.) You possibly can prepare dinner these, of their skins, in a shower of sugar syrup and they’ll yield deliciously to the warmth.
For the sugar syrup
granulated sugar 120g
cinnamon stick half
For the sauce:
blackcurrants 200g, contemporary or frozen
the syrup, above, 100ml
Make the sugar syrup: put the granulated sugar in a medium-sized saucepan – I exploit a deep 20cm saucepan – add the water, cloves, cinnamon and lemon and convey to the boil. Halve the peaches and take away their stones. When the water has dissolved the sugar, decrease within the peaches and switch the warmth down so the fruit simmers gently and cooks for 10-20 minutes, relying on the ripeness of the fruit.
Take away the blackcurrants from their stalks, then carry them to the boil in a small saucepan with 100ml of the peach syrup till the fruit begins to burst and the juices have turned deep purple.
Verify for tenderness with the purpose of a knife or skewer then take away the fruit and reserve its cooking syrup. Take away the pores and skin from the fruit – it ought to slip off simply, then place in a serving dish, spooning over the blackcurrant syrup as you serve.